Eyebrows are the frame of your eyes so whether you are shaping your eyebrows yourself or you are wanting Permanent makeup there are certain rules and guidelines that most brow artists, waxers, or threading professionals will likely use. As a Professional makeup artist of 19+ years I have always used most of these rules. I also learned new ones when I learned how to do Permanent makeup and Nano Brows. I enjoy helping women feel more confident and having well shaped brows. There are a lot of people that because of age, hormones, or previously tweezing too much of their brow hairs off don't have a full brow and could benefit from filling in and shaping their brows; either permanently with Nano brows or with makeup every day.
The easiest way is to look in the mirror grab a makeup brush or pencil and hold the brush angled up the side of your nose by pushing your nostril in and up the line of your nose. that is where your brows should start. Keeping the brush at the corner of your nose make it diagonal from the corner of your nose to the outer edge of your iris and your pupil. the end of the tail of your brow is diagonal from the corner of your nose to the corner of your eye. Your tail of your brow should also not go lower than the bottom side of the front of your brow.
There are some things that are exceptions or that you have to pay attention especially when you are doing permanent makeup to make them look symmetrical. If you have any scars or been in any accidents that affected how your skin and brow sits you want to take that into consideration. Some people also have one side of their face that's a bit flat, and one curved back faster because either as a baby or long-term sleeping on one side of the face all the time. When that is true sometimes to make them look more even you can make one slightly flatter and one side more curved on the underside of the arch. This is definitely a more ADVANCED brow shaping technique so when just filling in brows don't try to do this it's not worth it LOL. I definitely have used this technique to help make brows look more even when I marked and saw that even though the measurements were even to the naked eye it didn't look even.
When you choose a color for filling in brows with makeup you want the brows to be same color one shade lighter or darker than your chosen hair color. Whether you are using a brow pencil or pen, brush or pomade, etc You want to use short feathery strokes in the direction your hair grows so it looks more natural. If you struggle with brow color staying on you want to do a pencil or pen than use a powder over it. This will help make it last longer for the day.
When choosing a color for permanent makeup for brows whether Nano Brows, Ombre, Combo, etc you want the end result when it's healed to be same shade or one shade lighter or darker usually. Sometimes as a blonde you want to be 2-3 shades darker so you can see but for most other hair colors that is the rule. So, in order to find that color the PMU artist needs to choose a color slightly darker and warmer because they heal lighter and cooler. When they heal than you can tweak the ink color darker warmer or keep it the same depending on if you need to change anything about how it healed.
Angela Lealaogata Professional Makeup Artist
and Permanent Makeup Artist
